麻豆榴蓮茄子草莓絲瓜
陳文彬 79146萬字 37802人讀過 連載
北海道，我想像過無數個我們見面時的畫面，然而，當我踏上這片干凈得很透徹土地，就被周圍的熟悉的氣息包圍著，清新溫暖，似曾相識的美好，在淡色之景中，安靜的釋放快樂……為滿足A媽想去日本旅行的心愿，這次選擇了跟團旅行，讓我也偷懶享受下不用做功課的幸福吧～嘿嘿，下了飛機，大巴就接上了我們，車窗外的風景吸引著我趕緊掏出手機按下快門～棉花糖一樣的云朵，在微風的陪伴下，緩緩的移動在藍色的布景中⋯⋯ 第一站是要驅車3個多小時前往“十勝川”，我們和導游申請要先喂飽肚子，于是徐導把我們帶到了一個小而精致的拉面館943;⋯北海道拉面是一定要吃一下的哦～這里6月底7月初的溫度很舒服，20度左右，拉面館的窗外陽光明媚，窗邊竟然有這么原生態的風景⋯Y43;最愛雛菊，堅強的盛開在微風和陽光下，又或者是走在某處遇到的小清新，心情一下好起來～ 淡色之景，像夢一樣澄澈～ 拉面是可以投幣來買的哦～徐導推薦說大醬味的拉面最好吃，毫不猶豫的點了，590日幣一碗，約48RMB香噴噴，好地道的一大腕大醬拉面阿～這一頓特別美味～吃好繼續趕路，今天的任務就是“行走“在路上⋯⋯3個小時都能一路欣賞到這種鄉間小路的美景，好養眼～一點也不嫌多⋯⋯到達一個休息站，大家都紛紛下來休息⋯;3;休息站也修的這么美⋯943;難怪連日本大叔都認真的在欣賞風光，不忍打攪～可愛的日本小寶寶，媽咪也很年輕漂亮943;⋯饞嘴A跟風，也買了一個冰激凌，300日幣（約24RMB）吃完拉面，甜點也有了，嘿嘿，很好吃哦～ 休息站旁的小花園各種叫不出名字的花兒，爭先斗艷～象花兒一樣安享歲月流淌的靜謐，不問世事，不涉紅塵，靜坐陌上，等候花開943;⋯好一朵紫色的大球花～怎么能長的這么Q呢？紫色的花兒在這里很常見，給北海道憑舔了許多浪漫色彩⋯;⋯到達酒店了，一打開房間門，純日式踏踏米的房間，很溫馨，換上給客人提供的和服款睡衣后，A媽熟練的開始鋪床了⋯;943;空間利用的很好的日式整體浴室洗手間，還蠻適合小戶型裝修參考哈空間利用的很好的日式整體浴室洗手間，還蠻適合小戶型裝修參考哈房間里的小梳妝鏡是折疊起來的，打開后剛好可以利用起來拍個合影～突然感覺到了和原來記憶中某個片段類似的味道，那是一種很奇妙的感覺，有些東西就要屬于自己，包括別人拿不走的記憶943;Y43;相信未來的我會感謝現在努力的自己，你也一樣～我喜歡我，在你的角度里燦爛的樣子，謝謝A媽給拍下我開心的樣子到了晚餐時間啦～大餐開始羅～黃油在熱鍋上融化后，就可以煎炸美味了～滿滿一桌子的日本料理，豪華團就是要吃出質量哈～全部自己來，想不好吃也不行⋯⋯全部自己來，想不好吃也不行⋯⋯吃飽了總要運動下，雖說是在鄉間度假村，周邊沒神馬好逛的，也要出去走走，哈哈⋯⋯慚愧的看看周邊的日本人，1個胖紙都木有呀～([]
最新章節： 第521章 劍靈 （ 2024-07-16 16:34:45）
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榴蓮草莓香蕉秋葵絲瓜向日葵蜜桃星辰
林皇辰Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.為了讓楊同學的傳奇能讓全世界的驢友分享，俺決定把楊同學的帖子翻譯成英文。為了避免麻煩，俺先來個免責聲明：1。楊同學不認識俺，也沒有授權俺，如果他說不要翻譯了那俺就隨時終止；2。俺沒有商業目的，譯版版權歸楊同學，俺啥也不要，也不承擔法律責任；3。沒有楊同學授權，不敢擅自發在國外網站，發在原帖處，榮譽歸8264；4。俺英語水平有限，歡迎指正，歡迎轉貼。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感謝大伙兒支持和加分，不一一回復了。特別感謝多啦，希望能有機會一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差點兒沒找到俺自己的帖子，原來變色了。多謝各位鼓勵。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birt
中韓高清無專區2021
林義心【溫馨提示】為方便朋友們瀏覽，我將泰國、新加坡、馬來西亞之旅，分別在【走出國門】進行了專發布。這是第三個帖子——馬來西亞（Malayxia）印象。與外國友人在一起第一次：更新至第08—13頁第074—128樓；第二次：更新至第14—20頁第140—197樓；第三次：更新至第21—24頁第203—236樓；第四次：更新至第28—33頁第278—328樓；第五次：更新至第40—43頁第399—428樓；第六次：更新至第48—54頁第472—531樓；第七次：更新至第54—62頁第538—617樓；第八次：更新至第62—67頁第618—667樓。馬來西亞【Malayxia】印象，全部內容到此已更新完畢，對朋友們的熱情鼓勵與大力支持，再次表示感謝！ 馬來西亞——中文名稱叫“馬來西亞聯邦”，英文名稱為“Malayxia”,簡稱是“大馬”, 是東南亞的國家之一，也是東南亞國家聯盟的創始國之一。 政治體制為“議會制君主立憲制”，國歌是《我的國家》，國家代碼是“MAL”,國際電話區號是“+60”，國際域名縮寫為“.my”；首都：吉隆坡；政治中心位于布城；主要城市是馬六甲和新山；官方語言為馬來語，英語為通用語言和函電語言，其它還有漢語、泰米爾語和一些部族語言； 道路通行法規為靠左行駛； 馬來西亞貨幣為令吉。 1957年8月31日獨立。是一個由十三州和三個聯邦直轄區組成的聯邦體制國家，面積有329847平方公里。 馬來西亞時區在UTC+8,共分兩大部分，中間有南中國海相隔：一部分是位于馬來半島的西馬來西亞，北接泰國，南部與柔佛海峽相隔；另一部分是東馬來西亞，位于婆羅洲島上的北部。人口為2756萬，密度為83.57人/平方公里（2010年）；國土面積為33萬平方公里，水域率0.3%；GDP總計4420美元，人均15384美元(2010年)。 主要民族有馬來人、華人、印度人，整個國家的男女比例，嚴重失調，男多女少，達到了12：1，因此，居住在馬來西亞的男性華僑多要娶當地女子為妻，所生的子女被稱為“峇峇（馬來語譯音，讀為BaBa）”，所生的女兒則叫作“娘惹”。主要宗教有伊斯蘭教、佛教、道教、印度教。 馬來西亞的旅游資源十分豐富，陽光充足，氣候宜人，擁有很多高質量的海灘、奇特的海島、原始熱帶叢林、珍貴的動植物、千姿百態的洞穴、古老的民俗民風、悠久的歷史文化遺跡以及現代化的都市。 馬來西亞因位于赤道附近，屬于熱帶雨林海洋性氣候，無明顯的四季之分，一年之中的溫差變化極小，平均溫度在26—29℃之間，全年雨量充沛，10—12月是雨季。 在馬來西亞旅游，基本上全年都適宜。白天雖然炎熱，但是午后有陣雨，晚上會有季風吹拂，十分涼爽。 尤其是北部的檳榔嶼，早晚氣候適宜，涼風不斷。 在馬來西亞東部及東海岸，11月至次年3月是雨季，4—5月和10月比較炎熱，應盡量避開這段時間。西部年平均降雨量為2000—2500毫米，東部則在3000毫米以上。6—7月降雨量最少，8—9月和10—12月降雨量最多。 如果有商務活動，最好放在每年的3月至11月，因為大多數馬來西亞商人于12月到次年2月休假。圣誕節及復活節前后一周不宜前往，同時也應避開穆斯林的齋月和華裔人的新年。 了解馬來西亞的旅游，也要了解馬來西亞的歷史： "二戰"后，英國將檳榔嶼等9個馬來土邦合并為馬來聯邦，將新加坡作為英國獨立的殖民地。 1957年馬來聯邦獨立，1963年馬來聯邦同新加坡、沙撈越、沙巴合并組成馬來西亞。 1965年新加坡退出，形成了現在的馬來西亞。 了解馬來西亞的歷史，更要了解馬來西亞的習俗： 馬來西亞法律規定，馬來人均為穆斯林，因此，馬來西亞人不吃豬肉、不吃各種動物的血液和自然死亡的動物。 馬來人不吸煙。拿東西時用右手，認為左手不潔，吃飯時用右手抓食，只有在西式宴會及高級餐館才用刀叉與匙進餐。 馬來人忌諱摸頭及背部，不能用食指指人；遇見女士時，不能先伸出手要求握手。 如果到馬來人家拜訪，必須穿戴整齊，由于馬來人的內廳也用來祈禱，因此，要將鞋脫在門外。 馬來西亞的國教為伊斯蘭教，游客在進入伊斯蘭教經堂前必須脫鞋，同時注意著裝，不可將手臂和雙腳暴露在外。并且，不能從正在禱告的穆斯林面前經過，不得碰觸《古蘭經》。在寺廟內，未經許可，不準拍照。就這模樣 我們在馬來西亞，從早到晚，經常聽到高音喇叭傳出“念經”的聲音，回蕩在整座城市的上空；起初聽到這個特別的聲響時，多少還受到了點驚嚇，后來才明白這是馬來西亞的“風俗”。 2013年4月23日下午，結束新加坡的行程，旅游大巴將我們送到新加坡口岸通關，14點17分順利進入了馬來西亞國境，馬來西亞旅游大巴已在等候我們。通關后，跨過大橋就走上了高速公路我們乘坐的馬來西亞旅游大巴 我們一路高速，平穩行駛，沿路兩側風土人情，賞個沒完，同車的游客酣睡如泥，而我卻睜大了雙眼，靜靜地欣賞著，同時時不時地抓拍著窗外的美景。寬敞舒適的旅游大巴高速公路上的志牌高速公路邊的加油站高速公路兩側的景致([]
麻豆榴蓮茄子草莓絲瓜
陳慧德揣著夢想帶著渴望帶著群友和哥們的囑咐，帶著對所有熱愛戶外人的祈福，經過許久的準備，我即將要踏上進藏之路！ 西藏是我們夢寐的歸宿，西藏是神圣的搖籃和天堂，渴望那里的藍天，渴望著伸手可以觸摸到的藍天中的白云，也渴望著你那祥和的無盡的牧草和低頭吃草的藏牦牛！ 西藏，我要來了！請您張開你寬闊的臂膀并釋放出慈祥的母愛接受我吧!全程攻略：D15月13日，早9點木子戶外出發，途徑遼河大橋-盤錦油田-錦州采油廠-濱海公路-錦州-葫蘆島-綏中興城-秦皇島-北戴河。行駛里程395公里油耗12升行駛時間8小時（其中累計休息1小時）D25月14日，北戴河-昌黎-樂亭-唐?？h-天津濱海新區-天津北外環-霸州-白溝-保定徐水縣，騎行447公里。D35月15日，保定徐水縣-保定-望都縣-定州市-新樂市-正定縣-繞行石家莊外環-鹿泉市-307國道-平定縣-山西陽泉市-壽陽縣，騎行300公里其中100公里盤山路。D45月16日，早8點半出發11點到達騎行152公里，騎行路線壽陽縣-S216-南燕竹鎮-晉中-太谷縣-平遙古城。騎行152公里。D55月17日，平遙-靈石縣-洪洞縣-襄汾縣-曲沃縣-侯馬市-河津市-韓城市-合陽縣，騎行380公里由山西進入陜西。D65月18日，合陽縣-大荔縣-108國道-渭南市-臨潼-西安-周至縣-秦嶺盤山道-佛坪縣騎行里程：424公里 （周至縣-佛坪縣盤山路120公里）D75月19日，佛坪-洋縣-城固縣-漢中市-勉縣-寧強縣-朝天區-廣元市，騎行320公里（其中200公里盤山路）D85月20日，廣元市-劍閣縣-綿陽市-德陽市-廣漢市-成都-成都南517318川藏線-拉薩起點接待站，騎行里程404公里。D95月21日，成都-新津-邛崍市-名山縣-雅安行駛里程：140公里。D105月22日，雅安-二郎山-瀘定-康定。行駛里程182公里D115月23日，康定-折多山口-新都橋-雅江 行駛里程：157公里。D125月24日，繼續走318雅江-理塘——稻城，行駛里程332公里。D135月25日，稻城-理塘-海子山口-巴塘 行駛里程：329公里D145月26日，巴塘-竹巴龍-芒康-如美-登巴-左貢-邦達 行駛里程：368公里D155月27日，邦達-巴宿-然烏-波密，騎行里程：325公里D165月28日，波密—林芝——工布江達縣，行駛里程：378公里D175月29日，工布江達-拉薩 行駛里程：278公里D185月30日，夢想成真！拉薩D195月31日，拉薩閑逛D206月1日，拉薩-那曲 行駛里程：360公里D216月2日，那曲-沱沱河，里程：420公里D226月3日，沱沱河-格爾木 里程：420公里D236月4日，格爾木-青海湖黑河鄉 里程;558公里D246月5日，青海湖環湖大概要360多公里，早9點出發晚5點半回到旅館。D25——D316月6日——6月12日，青海湖——遼寧濱海路錦州區域，騎行2200公里D32：到家！2012.5.13——2012.6.13遼寧營口——西藏拉薩——遼寧營口行程：一萬公里 5月7號上午去了二龍哥們那里準備把摩托維護一下，到了那里他不在，帶孩子看病去了。等了一小會，二龍一回來就換上衣服幫我做維護。換了機油和機濾輪胎充氣并對剎車做了調節，親自試騎了下，哥們還親手為車上了鏈條油，關羽在此感激不盡！ 5月8號開始整理隨行的必備品，把閑了一冬的車包也拿出來了，邊包還可以只是橫包壞了，想想原因是去年騎行的時候過多的使用了橫包，雨水澆過后沒有及時晾曬導致糟了，哎。。。無奈呀，只好淘寶又拍了個高大威的橫包。 5月9號早5點到店，自己又對車進行小規模的檢查，燈光 離合器高低 馱包的貨架 后視鏡鎖緊。。。10點去哥們的洗車行刷車順便還蹭了頓飯。下午渤海大街騎行西炮臺、好旺角、濕地，南行至熱電廠，檢查下機器性能。去鋼鐵買的塑料膜，然后到一個做衣服的那里做了2個大的馱包防雨罩，因為進藏后的天氣隨時會變以防萬一，但愿我的愛車能順利的馱著我離西藏越來越近！ 5月12日，準備裝備裝車！ 一切準備就緒，心情竟然出奇的平靜，一路上的精彩在等著我，夢想，離我越來越近了！ 13號早9點木子戶外出發，本想低調出行，無奈幾個鐵桿哥們執意要送，感受著哥們的依依離別之情，世界上，友情才是最暖的，我笑了 送行的車隊 送君千里終須別，大橋下，抽完這只煙，我將獨自踏上征程 D1： 出發行駛到盤錦曙光采油廠，突然一輛遼F牌照的雅馬哈踏板超了上來，呵呵你超就超吧我不急，走了一段路后前方來到了修橋的位置，那輛踏板傻眼了，隨即擺手示意我停車向我問路，后來得知這哥們是從丹東一路騎行過來的，終點北京，幾天前和女友回丹東老家，在丹東買的摩托要騎回北京。這北京的哥們只帶了頭盔穿了件騎行服下面牛仔褲旅游鞋，我就問他：你就這樣騎到北京嗎？那哥們笑了說，女友開奧迪A4在高速上呢！原來如此有救援車跟隨，強?。?！ 既然是同路人免不了相互的遞煙點煙，那哥們也對我說：我超你的時候就能感覺出來你是要進藏的，我說為什么你能看出來呢？他回答說遼H牌照如此的裝備并且是向南騎行，后來得知這哥們也是個驢。。。 他女友來電問路，然后我接的告訴她在錦州東下然后左拐直行26公里濱海路和我們匯合。 午餐一起吃的北京哥們消費，由于路上風大并且海邊騎行，我把我隨身帶的沖鋒褲給那哥們穿了。 晚餐北戴河哥們接待，并且給北京的哥們和女友安排了晚上住的賓館，在送他去賓館的路上他感慨的說了句：同是同路人天下驢友一家親！大哥北京有事您言語！ 13號早9點出發晚上5點到達北戴河，行駛里程395公里油耗12升行駛時間8小時（其中累計休息1小時）哥們家的狗狗 哥們的媳婦在給俺做早餐 D2： 5月14號一直走行在河北省唐山和天津濱海路，看慣了我們家鄉的海對這里的海沒有感覺了，進入河北管轄區后一片大平地所以就沒有拍片。 14號的騎行路線是：北戴河-昌黎-樂亭-唐?？h-天津濱海新區-天津北外環-霸州-白溝-保定徐水縣，騎行447公里。 晚上入住徐水大酒店，經理親自接待了我，說佩服我的獨行，慚愧。 兩個保安輪流為我看了一夜的車，真的很感謝 D3 5月15號騎行路線：保定徐水縣-保定-望都縣-定州市-新樂市-正定縣-繞行石家莊外環-鹿泉市-307國道-平定縣-山西陽泉市-壽陽縣，騎行300公里其中100公里盤山路，路上都是拉煤的大貨車。石家莊路遇廣西的小伙子，廣西做飛機去拉薩然后飛北京，北京買的車騎回廣西！ 離開石家莊進入山西開始有山了心情隨之也特別好，看看這山頂部多平，覺得很像我們那里的官財山！ 拉煤的車很多我算了下每隔10秒就有一輛通過，不到山西你是不知道有多少拉煤的車！ 連日來沒有雨，路面為什么會這樣的亮！并且有點滑! 猜猜？答案：由于都是拉煤的車，煤面難免會掉落到路面很多車碾壓后就造成煤色的鏡面了并且有點滑! 營口還沒有建筑如此講究的散熱塔進入山西境內隨處可見的老建筑進入山西山西人民欠迎你！哈哈！如同9幾年的時候 北京歡迎爾！ 路 這個隧道長將近1600米，里面通行的都是拉煤的車，隧道燈很暗，里面空氣夾雜著煤灰讓人窒息，根本什么也看不到，大車呼嘯著從你的身后發瘋的超過，幸虧我有雙閃，好可怕呀！ 晚上到住處，我就像是從煤堆里扒出來的一樣，臉黑黑的，照照鏡子，原來我從剛果來，哈哈入關了，還能見到長城 D4： 5月16日早8點半出發11點到達平遙，騎行152公里，騎行路線：壽陽縣-S216-南燕竹鎮-晉中-太谷縣-平遙古城 直接騎進平遙古城感覺特爽，最后在步行街附近停下，和附近一家地方小吃的伙計攀談起來，了解一下在網上收索不到的信息，最后決定應該今天住下。 感覺進城后一切事情都很順利，隨便找了家城內居民的自家小旅館真是隨我心愿，即解決了住又解決了車和包看管的問，車直接就停在我住的門口。 解開了隨車包換衣服，清洗換下的幾件衣服后開始逛城！今天出發時的路 路上村口的山西吊爐餅，看人家那手藝和設備，老娘幫著兒子一起做生意！其實也很貴的一元一個，我覺得這么大小的餅在我們營口應該一元兩個吧！途經榆次老城 平遙古城隨拍！本來想介紹下平遙古城，上網一搜都是，大家自己去找吧呵呵！ 給我的感覺是住在這里的人每家都有文物，并且吃飯、睡覺、生活每天都在一起相伴，以下的片都是真實的。 另外一家古今結合，古老的家具和現代的高科技電腦。。。 當鋪家的地道([]
妞妞在線觀看歐洲專區2區3區不卡
劉依海2009年9月28日 早上5點多就起了床，匆匆去趕民航班車。乘坐845的CZ3682航班，1130到貴陽，在機場問了一下去荔波的航班，已經飛走了，于是徹底打消了飛荔波的念頭。到延安西路客車站坐上下午100去荔波的長途車。 上次做長途旅行已經是去年國慶節的事了，那次去的是廣西。一年之后再次出行，心中不免興奮。雖然不是高速公路，但路況還不錯，6個小時的車程竟未覺得十分疲勞。一進入荔波就看到了碧綠的樟江，荔波城區就是沿著樟江而建的，可以說樟江是荔波的母親河。我們住的溪橋賓館就在樟江邊，離長途車站也只有幾步路。荔波是一個新鮮而精致的小城，與我想象中的山中小鎮的樣子完全不同，可能近年旅游業的興起已經使荔波發生了巨變。 在長途車上結識了兩位旅伴，她們也是結伴從北京來荔波玩的。我們一起去不遠處的茂蘭旅游接待中心咨詢了在荔波的日程安排，并訂下了后天去茂蘭的包車。之后，我們步行去美食街，中途在路邊的大概叫月亮小吃的小館吃了一碗牛肉粉。想不到，吃過米粉竟然飽了，原本要吃荔波烤魚的，也只好做罷，留待明天了。不過，美美的喝了一碗楊梅湯，很爽。 2009年9月29日 今天的行程是小七孔和大七孔。到荔波之前，以為玩大、小七孔都是要包車的，其實大可不必。在長途車站有很多車到這兩個景點，方便極了。 小七孔景區范圍很大，要想在一天內把主要景點看完，必須乘坐電瓶車。電瓶車的第一站就是小七孔橋。這是一座建于清道光年間的古橋，石塊砌成，橋的規格并不大，中有七孔，因此被稱作小七孔橋，小七孔景區也是因此橋而得名的。 小七孔橋把一帶碧水分割開來，橋身在寧靜的水中投下倒影，四周樹木繁茂，是個極其幽靜的所在。 橋頭的一棵枯樹有半截身子在水中，枝條扭曲著，遒勁有形，愈發為這處景觀增添了幾許古樸。 小七孔景區最重要的景觀就是水，各種形態、各種顏色的水。 從小七孔橋沿溪邊小路西行，不久就到了拉雅瀑布。拉雅瀑布從山上傾瀉而下，匯入響水河，響水河在這一帶從高到低形成68級疊水，疊水、瀑布相呼應，千姿百態，很好看。 從這里向上，一共有68級疊水，不過，只有一直沿著響水河走上去才能都看到。 這是68級疊水的一部分，那水極清澈，從高處一層一層地跌落下來，仿佛有說不盡的歡樂。 這就是拉雅瀑布，水被山巖和灌木撕扯成千絲萬縷。 從側面看疊水。 小七孔景區里到處都是瀑布，形態各異。水會為風景增添靈氣，此說不謬，小七孔就因水而充滿了靈動之氣。 這是個不知名的小瀑布。 所謂疊水，其實就是成群的小瀑布。 游覽路線一直沿著響水河向上，把68級瀑布都看過，就到了第二個電瓶車?？奎c，電瓶車把游人送到下一個景點：水上森林。水上森林屬濕地景觀，從電瓶車?？奎c到水上森林要穿過一片密密的竹林。 在灌木叢中發現了一條蛇，看它身上彩色的斑紋，很可能是有毒的。 水邊的叢林里有這種美麗的花，它有一個非常羅曼蒂克的名字，叫曼珠莎華。 美麗的野花在水邊盡情開放，伴著潺潺流水，絲毫不感寂寞。 兩只蜻蛉落在水邊的樹葉上，仿佛在接受檢閱。 隨處可見結了這種果實的灌木，不知道是什么。 茂密的樹木扎根在流水里，根系抱定水下的巖石，形成了奇特的水上森林。這是植物為適應多地表水的地理環境所具有的特性。 生物多樣化幾乎是所有濕地的共同特征。我雖不懂生物學，但也隨手拍下一些照片。 全身藍色的蜻蜓。 藍頭紅尾的蜻蜓。 又一種不同的蜻蜓。還有好多種呢，不過有的特別警覺，不易接近；還有的只飛不落，所以不易拍到。 一只花蝴蝶。 這種蝴蝶好象比較少見，身后拖著長長的尾巴。 又一處小瀑布 水生植物極其豐富，典型的濕地景觀。 走出濕地，坐上電瓶車，下一站是臥龍潭。 “哇！”第一眼望見臥龍潭，我不由得叫出聲來，太美了，美得不可思議！如果不是以前去過九寨溝，恐怕不敢相信，現實中真的有這樣美麗的景致嗎？難怪，貴州人自稱小七孔可以與九寨溝相媲美。我是2003年去的九寨溝，那時的九寨溝在旅游旺季已經是人滿為患了，小七孔畢竟還沒有那么喧囂，再說，現在是國慶前夕，還沒到游客最多的時候，我們可以在欣賞美景的同時享受一分寧靜。 耳邊只是瀑布的轟鳴，那是自然之聲。 潭，藍得幽深；瀑，白得耀眼。 臥龍潭和瀑布是由于一道弧形的人工壩攔截了響水河而形成的。 微風拂過臥龍潭，水面波光鱗鱗，煞是好看。 看，這象不象是一只深邃的眼睛！ 臥龍潭是小七孔景區的最精華，水在這里變成了令人難以置信的藍色。潭的四周，林木幽深，仿佛隱藏著許多秘密。([]
日本亂碼無限
郭子揚在看得見的地方，我的眼睛和你在一起； 在看不見的地方，我的心和你在一起…… ——倉央嘉措 發帖、寫貼真的比走路更累。曾經看著一張張相片，一直不知道怎么下筆寫這篇“色達.喇榮五明佛學院”的開場白，因為寫不出那攝人心魄的紅色海洋里的虔誠和友善，因為寫不出那衣冠朱紅穿梭中滿目的堅強和執著，因為，更怕這圖文誤導了你們——我熱心的讀者們……今天，尤其在聽說這個聞名世界的最大的藏傳佛學院起火了，心中倍感焦慮。深夜，一杯咖啡相伴，重新“提筆”記錄“我眼中的另一個世界——走過‘色達·喇榮五明佛學院’”，也許這是化瞬間為永恒的另一種方式吧……——記（BY 圖圖） 在這里，在神圣的宗教信仰濃郁的國度里，你可以真切的感受到藍天下那些看見或看不見的真誠——它，感動著你，震撼著你，讓你甘愿停下腳步，尋找心底那份久違的平靜——色達喇榮五明佛學院，你是我眼中的另一個世界……——記 那天，清晨從“康定”出發，連續坐了十多個小時的汽車，途中“爐霍”到“喇榮五明佛學院”那段G317公路，路況異常糟糕，而在“爐霍”拼車換乘的藏族司機“嫻熟”的車技更是讓我苦不堪言，我蜷縮在車上，頭疼欲裂，一句話不想講。我承認我一上車就困，想睡覺，想在迷迷糊糊中到達目的地，以此來逃避暈車的苦。車窗外的景色偶爾會讓我捎上一眼，卻沒留下太多的記憶。是的，人常常會在某個不舒服的時候碰觸到“軟肋”，讓你控制不住的想去傷感、去懷念。那天，“倉央嘉措情歌”在顛簸的車內縈繞著，感覺天堂與信仰離我越來越近，而腦海中時隱時現的與“貢嘎”穿越隊友分別時的場面則離我越來越遙遠，那天，他們有人在回家的路上，有人在奔向另一個城市的途中，我呢，我去“色達”了，你呢？何時改變？我想，你總有一天也會跟現在的我一樣，迷戀上這途中的苦與樂，愿那一刻，我們都是世界上最幸福的人……——記途中休息、午飯…… 途中一景（BY 圖圖 車內拍攝）…… 午后13點30分到達“爐霍”，這里因為地處山區，交通不便，傳統上的居民依舊遵循先祖的足跡，堅守自己的信仰，從事農牧業。一部分人逐漸被旅游業和服務業沖擊，生活開始有了變化。這里的年輕人開始不再像他們的祖輩那樣穿著做工精美的手工藏式長袍，他們騎著摩托車，穿著牛仔褲，聽最流行的嗨曲，使用最時尚的手機，搖著的微信找“附近的人”……那個午后，經過好一頓討價還價后，才與廣州的兩個女孩一同包車奔向“喇榮五明佛學院”……——記 到達“爐霍” 下一站“喇榮五明佛學院” 危險、惡劣的路況，加上令人崩潰的顛簸，加上一路上玩著微信的藏族司機，讓我膽戰心驚……國道G317 旅行除了可以讓我們放眼看世界，它，更能讓你看到不一樣的自己。進入佛學院時，藏族司機居然一改路上遇車就立馬趕超上去的劣性，他的車慢慢的行駛在“覺姆”和“喇嘛”身后，竟不摁一下喇叭；他說，他曾經從家出發，一路朝拜到“布達拉宮”，歷經8個月之久，路上看到那些身體不適可依舊一步三叩的人，很讓他敬佩……我承認，那一刻我的心再一次顫抖，為這樣的民族信仰，為有這樣虔誠的人。記得那天，我在路上曾不止一次的想，也許除了冬季，隨便春夏秋來這里都會比現在更美吧，可是，從踏進色達佛學院開始，我的觀念便轉變了，不再會為“錯過”而后悔，不再會為類似登頂或穿越成功這樣的滿足感和幸福感所桎梏，是的，今天的我畢竟已不再年輕，能有一個金錢換不來的健康的身體和一個好的心態，能這樣有機會出去走走，足矣，夫復何求？——記 距“色達”縣城20余公里有一條山溝叫“喇榮溝”，在蔚藍蒼穹之下，銀嶺碧草之間，數千間赫紅色的木屋，如眾星拱月般簇擁著幾座金碧輝煌的大殿，這里就是藏于深山中的“喇榮五明佛學院”，也稱“色達佛學院”，是世界上最大的藏傳佛學院。這里的僧舍很壯觀，初到色達佛學院，眼前那連綿數公里的山谷布滿了密密麻麻的小木棚屋，成千上萬的喇嘛和尼姑的宿舍，會讓你目瞪口呆；谷底和山梁上分布著幾座寺廟和佛堂，建筑規模雖都不很大，但裝飾考究而輝煌，在佛學院最高的山峰上，有一個金碧輝煌的建筑，叫做“壇城”（音譯），它的上半部分是轉經的地方，據說如果有什么疾病，在這里轉上一百圈就能好，下面一層是轉經筒，金色的圓筒在人們干枯的手轉動過之后會留下一串悠長的嘎吱嘎吱的響聲；這里常住的喇嘛有兩萬多人，每到有佛事活動人數還會增加，最多時可達四萬多人，那些身披槳紅色僧袍的喇嘛和尼姑每天在這里來來往往，空氣中充滿生機和祥和氣氛……——記 藏族司機把我們四人送到地處佛學院最高的賓館——“喇榮賓館” 沒想到冬天的佛學院氣候格外干冷，生活條件如此清苦。那天，到達佛學院最高處的“喇榮賓館”時已經將近傍晚18點鐘，住的賓館里沒有水（因為沒有取暖設備，室內的自來水管道已經凍了），服務員給我們發了一個塑料桶，讓我們自己往樓上房間提水；房間內廁所上了鎖無法使用，上廁所得下樓，走出去一段，然后拐彎上坡，到一個搭著木板的簡易廁所里，那個夜晚，我竟然去了三次，每次都氣喘吁吁的回來……也許，是因為高原夜晚的空氣更稀薄，也許，是因為“旅行”注定了就不是去享受，那晚，我看到月色下的“色達佛學院”，美得讓我忘記了糾纏一路的疲憊……——記夜幕降臨……（BY 圖圖） 出行，若能帶上一顆包容和尊重他人的胸懷去體驗他人的生活，我想，也許一切會變得更好些……那一夜，恍若隔了一個世紀。冥冥中一句“好久不見”，便淹沒了我心中所有的世俗雜念，一顆麻痹的心被默默喚醒。是的，佛，雖沒問我的來處，沒問我的歸途，但我愿意在這里朝拜祈福，求佛主施舍一粒善意的種子埋在我的心底，從此心存感激，不再用獵奇的眼光來“讀”你……——記夜…… 清晨，山間到處是煙霧繚繞，密密麻麻的僧舍周圍彌漫著嗆人的煙熏味道，新的一天就這樣開始了。這里，清一色的僧舍沿著谷底一層一層地向兩側山坡延伸，漫山遍野的僧舍看似一片雜亂無章的紅色海洋，但它們卻依照嚴格的戒律而建。山頂密集的小屋多為男僧侶的住所，山坡左右兩側為覺姆（女尼）的住所，中間隔著的是居士區。男女出家人之間禁止接觸、交談、結伴行走。中部谷底為最早修行者所居之地，也是講經、辯經之處所，廣場上金碧輝煌的建筑則是法王“晉美彭措”弟子“堪布”的講經處……——記 鑲著金牙的藏族大姐結識于昨晚的飯廳，當時她一個勁兒對著我笑，待到第二天偶遇拍照時她用手捏了下我肉乎乎的臉……色達，你是誰的天堂…… 色達，在你圣潔的懷抱里，沐浴了多少人的靈魂，凈化了多少人的心靈…… 感謝你帶給我的震撼，讓我忍不住一次次停下腳步去感受這份美好…… 蔚藍的天空，沒有一絲云彩飄過，寺廟被河谷中排山倒海般交錯的絳紅簇擁著，是誰吸引著我來到這里，讓我變成你的畫中人？有人說“是你的東西永遠屬于你，不爭也是你的……”我不完全這樣認同，因為有些時候我會“爭”，因為“爭”代表一個人努力做某件事時的方向和過程，最終，無論“結果”是否屬于你，其實并不重要，畢竟生活中有些東西并不是因為曾經努力了就能夠擁有——就像“愛過”與“被愛過”，很多人為此走了彎路，因心事過重，因郁郁不樂而走不動，虛度了一生，其實，若能換個角度看世界，你便會發現轉身繞過山的那邊，三步兩步后便是天上人間……——記 “靜（凈）”，是心底的“蓮”，他們猶如孩童時的簡單與純真，猶如鄰家少女的婉約與質樸，猶如喧囂鬧市中瘦成一襲的孤單……那一日，“喧中見靜”，靡靡的佛音和經筒轉動的聲音，斑駁的墻體和每一個涂抹艷麗的圖騰，無不在向人訴說著它一往幽深的故事——人世間的圓滿與否不要刻意的去迎合或逃避，它或許真的就是一個圈，走著走著就繞回來了，再回首時，你會發現，一顆滿是塵埃的心，一半在記憶的塵土中飛揚，一半沿著這個弧度沐浴在陽光——從起點到終點……——記([]
今日新開80精品傳奇不卡一三區—視頻
林佳珠目錄1樓--------------------目錄和引子2樓-32樓--------------------換船！52樓-119樓---------------鴿子湖釣魚行（上）160樓-199樓--------------鴿子湖釣魚行（下）-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------第一季和第二季請看：釣魚的日子 第一季和第二季引子如果一個人滿懷信心地朝著心中的夢想前進，并致力于過自己想要的生活，那么他將在某個意想不到的時刻與成功不期而遇。 ---亨利梭羅 10年前，剛滿18歲的我是個非常小資，文藝，自愛，并稍微有點憤青的高中生。那一年里我讀了無數遍的《百年孤獨》和《城堡》，看了幾十部藝術片，并在2個周末里成功地消滅掉100多集的海賊王。對于一個一輩子都在重點學校，重點班，做事還算循規蹈矩的我來說，這些所謂的課外讀物攜帶著風卷殘云般的氣勢使我的世界觀如沙砌的城堡般土崩瓦解。突然間我發現生活并不是父母老師教導的那一條直線，并不是上一個好大學，找一個好工作，嫁一個好老公，買一個好房子，然后擁有童話般美好的結局。不知什么時候，我開始覺得我的生活缺少了一樣重要的東西，它不是一個具體的物件，而是一個概念，一個想法，一?？?以在我身體里生根發芽長成蒼天大樹的種子，這粒種子你買不到也借不著，它好像指紋一樣是這個世界上只屬于你的東西。后來我在歷史課上學到馬丁路德金，那個充滿勇氣的黑小伙告訴我，這個東西的名字叫做夢想。生活告訴我們，夢想是不要錢的，但是追逐夢需要的是百分之九十九的堅持，加上百分之一的運氣。這就好像那個黑小伙，頂著多少壓力還堅持不懈，可惜運氣不夠，沒能逃過最后的那顆子彈。生活還告訴我們，追逐夢想是一輩子的事業，而這一輩子的路上有看得到的艱難險阻，也有帶著巧妙偽裝的糖衣炮彈，還有眾多打暗槍的階級敵人。所以如果你以為父母的阻撓和生活的茶米油鹽醬醋茶是你追逐夢想道路上的絆腳石，那么恭喜你了，你還在這個龐大的RPG游戲的底層徘徊呢。對于這些明面上的敵人，咬咬牙堅持一下就挺過去了，而真正難以逾越的是那些溫水煮青蛙的生活，等你緩過神時已經跳不出來了。18歲的我帶著年少時充沛的精力和熱情把所有的時間都扎到課外書和藝術電影之中。我經常用一天的時間消滅掉一本書或者一部電影，然后沉醉在故事情節中那些最為出人意料和驚心動魄的段落中，它們讓我熱血澎湃，讓我對未來充滿了過于積極的展望。很多年后我才反應過來，那一本書或者一部電影是多少人一輩子的濃縮，那些巨大抉擇之前的猶豫和迷茫以及生命中某個篇章落幕時的感慨和欣喜，都是短短幾個段落所無法描述的。好像很多黃土高原上以老人為材的攝影作品，那個叼著煙袋，穿著幾乎洗成白色的藍卡其布上衣，坐在村口瞭望那漫無邊際的藍天白云黃土的老人，他的臉上被時光刻下了如此深刻的痕跡，而那些痕跡就是什么樣的文字都無法表述的生活。18年里在父母和學校庇護下的我，在熱血沸騰地向著夢想大踏步前進時,遠遠地低估了那個站在遠處暗笑的生活為我所準備的挑戰。 第三季開始正式工作后才發現原來上學和打雜工的生活太愜意了，這感覺就好像上學的時候等不及參加工作，參加工作了才發現原來還是上學的日子單純簡單。2010年8月，上班后發現的第一件事就是原來我的前任發現自己將被炒掉后就開始罷工，拿著工資每天在網上打撲克。所以上班的第一天，迎接我的不是組織熱情地擁抱，而是一堆可以建造小規模長城的積壓文件。于是在這個什么事情都靠人脈的行業，我成了唯一一個沒有去跑關系的人，并不是我不想，而是還沒來得及站穩腳跟，四處張望，就已經被文件給淹沒了。9月初，我可以擔保在別人眼中我已經成為了那個不喑人情世故并且反社交的老古板。因為每次別人那句“Hi， How are you?”剛說了一半，我就已經把文件交接完轉身走人了。在多倫多最美好的金秋時節來臨時我還沒來得及消化掉眼前的那座長城，但是系統重組已經鋪天蓋地的壓過來了。然后老總很語重心長地告訴我，不要急，慢慢來，我們是計劃給你配助手的，但是你需要先熟悉熟悉業務，熬過6個月，獎金會有的，助手也會有的。對了，記得把你的手機話費單拿到財務去報銷一下，再去IT領個手提，從現在開始需要隨時隨地能夠聯系上你。應該說我在這個時候才認識到萬惡的資本主義社會真面目。。。我把6個月的大好青春無私地奉獻給了夢想中的影視行業，每天過著朝八晚十的生活，早上還沒睜開眼睛就聽到手機里新郵件的提示音，這讓我想起小時候學的《共產兒童團歌》準備了好嗎？時刻準備著我們都是共產兒童團將來的主人必定是我們帝國主義者地主和軍閥我們的精神使他們害怕快團結起來時刻準備著我想我確實是在時刻準備著，只是不知道我的精神在讓誰害怕。。。我大概算了一下，從2010年8月到2013年2月底除去周末和節假日，一共120個工作日左右。我收到約4000封郵件，回復和發送了約4500封郵件，也就是說平均每天收發70封郵件左右，按照10小時工作日計算，每小時收發7封郵件，每10分鐘左右收發一封郵件。在這之上還有無數份文件，眾多電話，會議，網絡會議，面對面交談。。。2013年3月初，平均每個廣告拍攝項目收機后的結算流程由原來的1個月縮短到2個星期。平均每個月制作公司和后期公司的月終結算，項目審計和運作報告流程由原來的1個月縮短到10天。攝制組和后期人員有了固定的規章制度，時間表和監督機制。當然了，在制定和發布新制度的過程中我的聲譽在各個攝制組中也呈直線走向。從我的辦公室到攝制組的開放式辦公廳是一條直線的硬木走廊，每一次我的高跟鞋在走廊上發出鏗鏘有力的聲音時一定會博得攝制組百分百的回頭率。遺憾的是這并不是男人們欣賞美女時那充滿期待的回頭一眸，卻更像小學生在聽到班主任皮鞋走近的聲音時驚恐的一望。開放式辦公廳造成一種完全沒有隱私的環境，所以很快攝制組的成員們就成立了一個賭博機制，每次都賭這次是誰的報告被返工了。這個游戲在剛開始還算有趣，因為新制度剛實施時被返工的占大多數。贏了錢的人嘻嘻哈哈笑一下，輸了錢的扔個硬幣到辦公室中央的儲蓄罐里，然后大家該干嘛干嘛去。但是時間永遠是最佳編劇，一個喜劇在時間的打磨中也會演變成悲劇，3個月后，仍被持續返工的制片主任和劇務就成了這出悲劇的主角。憑心而論，3年前的我還是太嫩了，什么改革啊，炒人啊，都是掛在嘴邊的詞兒。老總您說什么，推行新制度，提高效率和利潤率，沒問，一切包在我身上！雖然我也曾學過循序漸進，也知道水清則無魚，更知道做事情不能學海瑞，但是脫離父母的庇護被扔到真實生活中之后便把那些金玉良言完全拋到了腦后。在這里我真的要感謝老總當時沒有采納我很多激進魯莽的建議，因為如果那些建議真的被實施了，估計我也會距離被炒魷魚不遠了。2011年2月底，多倫多的天氣還沒到春暖花開的程度，冬天的積雪開始融化，混雜著城市的灰塵變成黑色的污泥四處流淌。這是一年里最沮喪的季節，春天在昏暗的天空下一點也沒有到來的征兆。也許是為了給自己打氣，也許是惦記著我滿6個月的獎金和老總承諾的助手，也許是那時的我對生活還充滿天真的幻想，我在這個春天即將到來的季節上交了改革總結報告。在報告的最后，我羅列了一堆統計數據來大肆邀功，這些數字當然也帶了不少夸大其詞的成分，以至于我自己也開始飄飄然起來，幻想著年輕有為的我即將有著多么遠大的前途。一個星期后我還沒有收到老總的表彰信，但是幾個公司新接的項目里卻少了幾個常見的制片主任和劇務，而多了幾個新面孔。兩天后所有人都收到了老總一封致全體員工的郵件。這種郵件一般和政治演說沒什么區別，基本是大方向大政策的空話，表彰一下大家支持改革的積極態度，宣傳一下改革成效，督促眾位繼續努力。郵件的最后用幾句話提及了幾位消失的制片主任和劇務，解釋了大家因為發展方向上的分歧而決定另謀高就。記得上語文課時我們經常要分析課文，要從表面的字詞去研究其中心思想。我確實沒想到可以將課文分析用到實際生活中。但是如果讓我分析一下老總的這封郵件，應該可以這樣解釋：公司改革重組非常有成就，效率和利潤率有了一定的提高，主要是賺錢了，老總我的錢包鼓起來了，所以大家一定要繼續努力，讓我的錢包繼續膨脹。當然在改革過程中總是有那么幾個不聽指揮喜歡搞單獨行動的家伙，這種行為直接影響了公司的利益，所以已經將他們炒掉了。這也算殺雞給猴看，那些還對改革心存不滿的各位最好在下次遞交報告之前三思而后行。當然了，為起到恩威并施的效果，下個星期我做東，大家一起聚餐去吧。26歲的我在生命中第一次真正認識到原來我們的種種行為是有實際后果的，原來各種統計數據的背后是有著一個個鮮活而真實的面孔的。這次被炒掉的一個制片主任中有一個叫Petri的芬蘭人，那是個典型的心寬體胖的老好人，雖然他經常反映比較慢，而且手寫的便沒有任何一個人類能夠看得懂。改革后很多程序由手寫變成了電子處理，中年危機的Petri經常被電子采購訂單搞得焦頭爛額，然后精神崩潰的他會帶著周圍所有的人一起崩潰。我在幫助Petri修改了三次項目結算單后也差點未能幸免。有的時候我甚至懷疑是不是我的英文太差？或者芬蘭人和我們的大腦結構完全不同？所以那段時間我一看到新項目的劇組中有Petri的名字就頭痛。后來在我趕交改革總結報告的那幾個晚上，Petri和其他幾個劇組成員也在連夜籌備幾個拍攝項目。最后一天晚上10點多，打掃清潔的大媽們帶著拖把出現時辦公室里還是燈火通明，平時最喜歡搞活動的Brandon啪地合上電腦，跳起來喊道，FxxK it! 都跟我吃飯去！然后不由分說地拉著辦公室里剩下的幾個人一起去了街對面的法國餐廳。那頓飯是怎么吃的我已經記不得了，但是我卻記得Petri是第一個離開的，他那近1米9而且略為發福的碩大身軀站起來之后幾乎將法式餐廳里窄小的過道完全擋住，然后他用那非常有志性的胖手在空中劃了半個圈，說到，我得走了，大家晚安！我那天有沒有跟他道別？我真的記不清了。一個小時后我們分別買單時那個法國帥小伙告訴我，剛才我高大的朋友已經把我的單結了?？粗?略微驚訝的臉，Brandon說到，Petri就是這樣一個不善言辭的老好人。然后Brandon講了一個他的故事給我，那年Brandon剛開始跑龍套時總想自己拍點什么項目，于是承接了一個特別低預算的MV，做到一半時才發現還有一半的儀器沒著落，而預算已經被他花光了。那時Petri正在拍一個麥當勞的廣告，他的拍攝提前了幾個小時結束，在接到Brondon幾乎哭出來的求助電話后Petri自己開著卡車把剩下的儀器都拉到了MV現場，然后還跟著燈光組架燈光，收儀器，忙了一個整晚上，最后一句話都沒有就又把所有儀器拉回廣告拍攝場地準備第二天的拍攝。這是十年前的事了。十年后Brandon已經做到了線性制片，而Petri卻還是一如既往地做著他的老職位，但是他從沒有怨言，而且不論什么樣的新人求助，Petri一定全力以赴地將自己無私奉獻出來。這就是Petri。Brandon說完這個故事后我突然有種說不出的感覺，好像一個一直低著頭趕路的人驟然間停下腳步，然后意識到自己走了那么長的路，卻忘記了當初出發時的初衷。咱們做一個數學問，從起點出發，走到成功為終點，中間的距離是多少？如果從書本上來找答案，那么一本講某個成功人士的書也就200多頁，從白手起家到家財萬貫，中間的距離是厚約一厘米的200頁印刷紙。如果從生活中找答案，那么這一路上有無數的彎路，錯路，死胡同；有無數次被人踩，和無數個被踩掉的人；有抉擇前的猶豫，有失敗時的打擊，有拍拍屁股繼續前進的勇氣。這些真實生活中瑣碎的細節，人與人之間無法言喻的關系和情感，還有那鼓舞著我們在逆境中掙扎，在失敗中不言放棄的力量，這一切的一切，是只有真實經歷過的人才會明白的距離。因為生活的距離，是沒有咫尺可以衡量的。而26歲的我，卻仍舊拿著那一厘米的距離去衡量自己成功的道路。自以為讀書和打工時那么點挫折就是天大的磨難，而現在一腳踏入影視行業，我將會一步登天，伸手摘取成功的寶冠。在等待老總回復的那個星期，我開始收斂自己的張狂和輕浮，并無數次打好了腹稿，準備在老總面前剖心的自我檢討，然后自我升華一下。那個星期五，我忐忑不安地被叫到老總辦公室。我們老總原籍是英國人，4歲時全家移民到加拿大。20歲從喬治布朗建筑工科畢業，21歲從老爸的建筑工地逃出，開始在影視圈跑龍套。喜歡做燈光師的他偏偏是色盲，于是無奈轉做制片，曾經在北美MTV做過監制，而后在90年代加拿大最大的廣告拍攝制作公司Partners任總制片。當年Partners下屬公司包括3個非線性剪接公司，2個特效公司，1個創意公司，1個轉片場還有1個全套儀器租賃公司。其規模之大，據說圣誕節聚餐時Partners租用的是多倫多會議廳的場地。但是看來天下大事，分久必合，合久必分這句話用在老外身上同樣合適。2006年Partners創始人心臟病突發去世，半年內公司內部的沖突和不合已經上升到白熱化狀態，我們老總就是在這種情況下帶了一半的拍攝人員和兩個后期公司在2006年底分離了出來。3年后成功的借用之前Partners的運作方式并加以改進，完成了自己總公司旗下8個分公司的完整結構。至此Partners壟斷多倫多廣告制作行業的神話時代結束。就是這樣一個在行業里呼風喚雨的老總，在面試我時曾說，以后這個行業是你們年輕人的世界，當年我們拍片沒有數碼，全部都是膠片，沒有幾萬塊錢根本沒指望?，F在幾百塊就可以買到數碼相機，一個手提電腦就可以做剪接。在不久的未來這將會是一個完全不同的行業。當時聽著這話我突然想起毛主席的那句：“世界是你們的，也是我們的，但是歸根結底是你們的。你們青年人朝氣蓬勃，正在興旺時期，好像早晨八九點鐘的太陽。希望寄托在你們身上?！?個月后，還是我們兩個坐在同一個辦公室里，老總遞過來一個寫著獎金的信封，然后告訴我，這幾個月辛苦了。下個星期沒什么新的項目，你挑兩天給自己放個假，出去輕松輕松吧。這只是個開始，以后的路還長著呢。給你雇助手的招聘啟事已經發出去了，等你回來就準備面試候選人吧。老總把這段話說完，我等了一會才意識到，原來這確實就說完了。突然間我準備了一肚子的話卻不知道從哪里說起。我看著坐在我對面的這個中年男人，發現原來我一直都沒有擺正自己的位置，原來我自以為聰明的自己，和在這個行業里摸爬滾打了20多年的老總中間有著一個無法縮短的距離，這個距離的名字就叫作時間。而我那些所謂的糾結，檢討和升華在時間的面前得不到任何同情和表彰。因為在時間的長河里從來都只有過去時，而沒有那個假設幻想或者后悔的空間。于是我有禮貌地接過我的獎金，然后帶著最誠懇的語氣對老總說，謝謝您這半年來的鼓勵和栽培，我一定會繼續努力的！換船2011年三月初，上班后第一次光明正大的帶薪休假。事實證明女人郁悶的時候確實喜歡花錢。于是休假的第一件事就是換船！去年用了春秋兩季的橡皮艇在網上以3成的價錢連帶發動機和電池一起賣掉。然后將儲存室打掃干凈，為新的沖鋒艇作準備！這次要買的是我們去年就看好的沖鋒艇，仍舊是PVC材質，但是要比之前的橡皮艇厚度增加許多，據說用斧頭敲都不會有問。星期六早上天還沒亮，我們就出發去鄉下采購已經預訂好的沖鋒艇。這一年春天來得特別晚，三月了還是陰沉沉的天。一點都沒有一場春雨一場暖的感覺。途中路過Grand River的一個分支，下車出來走走，試圖在空氣中尋找到一點能夠給我希望的春天氣息。難以想象夏天這條河水曾經清澈無比，但是在早春的季節被融化的雪水和泥土一起翻著混濁。我們一起眺望對岸的風景。不知那里的風景是否會比這邊更加陽光燦爛？在外面透了點新鮮空氣，覺得心情也漸漸開朗起來。加上老公在一旁想方設法地逗我開心那么我也來放松一下吧！生活確實是需要樂趣的，再多的壓力和煩惱，笑一笑應該就會消失了吧。不知道是不是天氣真的和心情有關，開到取貨地點時天居然開始放晴了。好心的賣家在原地把樣船支了起來等我們。2千大洋的東西，買之前要好好查看查看。對于汽油發動機我確實糾結了很久，5馬力的發動機要比船本身還貴，速度雖然會快很多，但是噪音和氣味也是很大的問。思前想后，最后還是決定回去買一個大馬力的電力發動機?？吹牟畈?多了，沒什么可挑的，裝貨走人吧。換了船之后一連幾個星期天氣都沒有好轉，無奈之下只能四處亂逛搜集釣具。路亞竿。碳纖維，重量在中輕左右。竿和卷軸分售，竿50加幣，卷軸70加幣。繼續秀竿。這是2月份過生日公司送的，還是碳纖維，輕竿，很適合我用。竿和卷軸一共350大洋。這里感謝一下我那個不算小氣的老總！要是我自己肯定不會去買這么貴的釣竿。。。同上。來張全景的釣竿太費勁了。細節照。秀個魚餌吧。這家伙去年夏天被白斑狗魚咬的傷痕累累。這是2011年新購置的，剛買的時候我確實興奮了很長一段時間。有了這個家伙就我就可以全方位地監視到水下魚群了。但是事實證明理論和實踐還是有著很大的差距的。其實雷達最大的用處是用來測水深和水下的地勢，如果地勢突然間有巨大改變，或者水下有一棵大木頭，大石頭，那么有魚的機會就比較大。最后來張全副武裝的老公。這一身實在有點太夸張了。。。 熬到4月初，天氣終于開始轉暖了。每天上班的日子也在改革步入正軌后開始減緩下來，我在面試了幾個助手后鎖定在一個漂亮的波斯女孩。4月份第一個星期五，借著中午聚餐的酒勁我把留了半年多的頭發剪短了。雖然這說不上是削發明志，但我心里多多少少還是把削發當成了一種志，至于是不是個明智的志，那就只有時間才能證明了。明天一早，我們將會帶著新買的電動馬達和沖鋒艇出航！這次出行太興奮了。。。完全忘記了拍照，等到我們想起來時船已經準備齊全準備下水了。。。換個角度吧。船長。副船長。一家就兩個人，全都是當官的 兩個釣竿。第一次出行就釣到白斑狗魚!估計這位正在曬太陽的兄弟也很羨慕。還有這位海鳥兄弟，不知道它的晚飯有沒有著落呢。 我想問這個家伙，你是什么鳥?。。y得這句話可以說得如此貼切而又不是在罵人。）
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